More celebrations

The past few days have felt incredibly auspicious. Alongside the global peace prayers, Bhutan celebrated a major national event: the 70th birthday of the King’s father, former King Jigme Singye Wangchuck — deeply loved for his dedication to the people, the introduction of Gross National Happiness, and guiding Bhutan into democracy.
We got up at 3:45 a.m. and put on our kiras so we’d be properly dressed. At 4:30 a.m. we left the house and began walking toward town, hoping to catch a taxi. For a moment I wondered if any taxis even ran at that hour, but thankfully one appeared, and by 5 a.m. we reached the stadium. The front gate was already closed because that section was full, so we were told to enter through the back. There we found a spot on wooden boards on the ground. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see the ceremony directly, only on the big screens. I heard that some people had started queueing the night before just to get good seats. The level of devotion is truly incredible.
We waited about four hours for the main ceremony to begin. Early on, volunteers brought us some thukpa (Bhutanese porridge). It was still freezing and pitch-dark, so I was very grateful for the blanket and even the hot water bottle I had brought. I nibbled on a dried plum and offered some to the friendly people sitting next to us, though they only spoke Dzongkha, Sharchopkha, or perhaps another dialect — they didn’t seem to understand the Dzongkha sentences I tried. A little later the man in front of us offered us an entire cucumber, and around lunchtime a family with two girls shared potatoes and chilli salad with us, serving some on a Tupperware lid. This is what I love so deeply about Bhutanese people: their kindness, their openness, and the simple joy they take in sharing something with you — even if only for a moment of connection.
Just before 9 a.m., the ceremony began. Their Majesties arrived in a rare and very beautiful Chipdrel procession, performed only for the most special occasions. And because the King’s birthday coincided with the day of the Buddha’s descent, the event carried even more significance. After the flag hoisting and several rituals, the 5th King gave a speech for his father. The Bhutanese around us nodded along, clearly touched. I found myself wishing I understood more — I really need to learn more Dzongkha.
By this time, the sun had become intense. After shivering in the early morning cold, we were suddenly trying to shield ourselves from the burning heat.
Even though we watched everything on the big screens, it was absolutely worth getting up so early. Being part of the atmosphere, waving the flags, singing with everyone, and just sharing the moment with the Bhutanese made it unforgettable.